How to Read a Cosmetic Ingredient List
An ingredient list looks like a wall of Latin. It is the most honest part of a cosmetic label, and it follows a pattern. Learn the pattern, and you can read any product, including your own.
What INCI means
INCI stands for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. It gives each ingredient one standard name, so a product sold in India, the UK or the US lists glycerin as glycerin. Plant ingredients are shown with their Latin name, often followed by the part of the plant, such as Aloe barbadensis leaf juice. Water appears as Aqua.
Which rules apply to the list on a pack sold in India, and how it must be printed, are in our label requirements guide and the Cosmetics Rules, 2020. This guide is about reading it.
What the order tells you
Water is first in most creams, lotions and shampoos, because it is the largest part. The first five or six names usually make up most of the product. Active ingredients are often smaller, so a name near the end can be a small amount. In many markets, ingredients below about one per cent may be listed in any order, so do not read too much into the order at the end of a list. Ask your manufacturer how your list is ordered.
The ingredient families, with examples
| Family | Job | Examples you will see |
|---|---|---|
| Solvent | Dissolves and carries other ingredients | Aqua, Propanediol |
| Humectant | Holds water in skin | Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate |
| Emollient or oil | Softens and protects | Squalane, Shea butter (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter), Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride |
| Emulsifier | Keeps oil and water mixed | Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate |
| Surfactant | Cleans and foams | Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Decyl Glucoside |
| Thickener | Gives body | Xanthan Gum, Carbomer |
| Active | Targets a concern | Niacinamide, Salicylic Acid, Retinol |
| Preservative | Stops microbial growth | Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin |
| Antioxidant | Protects the formula | Tocopherol |
| Fragrance | Scent | Parfum, Linalool, Limonene |
| Colour | Appearance | CI 77891, CI 77491 |
Our product pages list the typical ingredients for each product, for example niacinamide serum and face wash.
Reading a made-up face wash
This list is invented for teaching. It is not a Formuluxe product.
Aqua, Decyl Glucoside, Glycerin, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Niacinamide, Sodium Chloride, Panthenol, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citric Acid, Parfum
Aqua first
Water is the base, as expected.
Two gentle surfactants early
Decyl Glucoside and Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate do the cleaning, so the wash is probably mild.
Glycerin
A humectant, to reduce tightness.
Niacinamide
The active. It sits after the surfactants, so the level is probably modest.
Sodium Chloride
Common thickener in surfactant systems.
Panthenol
A soothing ingredient near the end.
Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
The preservative system.
Citric Acid
Adjusts pH.
Parfum
Fragrance, listed last. It may contain allergens that the label should declare as required.
You can judge the product from the list: mild cleanser, one active, standard preservation. What you cannot tell is how well it performs. Only a test or use can.
Things the list does not tell you
Checking your own list before printing
Get the list from the formula
Your manufacturer provides the INCI list for the final formula, not a draft.
Check spelling and order
Compare the list on the pack, the carton and the online listing word for word.
Include everything
Preservatives, colours and fragrance components that the rules require.
Match the claims
If the pack says contains vitamin C, the list must show the vitamin C ingredient.
Update on any change
A new supplier or a small formula change can change the list; reprint before shipping.
See label requirements, cosmetic claims and BIS standards for the rules around ingredients.
How to Read a Cosmetic Ingredient List: common questions
What does INCI mean?
International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, the standard naming system for ingredients.
Is the first ingredient the most important?
It is the largest by amount, but not always the most important for the result.
Why is parfum last?
Fragrance is usually used in small amounts.
Does a short list mean a better product?
Not necessarily. Quality depends on the formula and testing.
Why is Aqua listed instead of water?
INCI uses Aqua for water in all languages.
Who writes the ingredient list on my label?
Your manufacturer supplies it from the final formula. You check and approve it.
Need an ingredient list?
We supply the INCI list for your final formula.